O-200 Engine #1 Assembly
This engine is eligible for installation in a certificated aircraft and meets all specs for 0 SMOH for the bottom end
with the crankshaft ground -.010 undersized.
-Jeff Scott jscott.planes "at" gmail.com
Cases cleaned and ready for assembly.
Table, parts, and engine stand.
-.010 crank shaft, magnafluxed, checked for true, polished and balanced.
Crank shaft on engine stand.
Crank gears with bolts torqued and safetied.
Re-ground cam followers installed in case halves. Each lifter was lubricated, then the cam followers and
holes were coated with Lubriplate assembly lube. Thrust bearings and -.010 main bearings installed in case halves.
Crank, cam and cam followers installed in case with Lubriplate assembly lube. Very thin coating of Permatex
Copper Ultra applied to each case half, then two silk threads applied to each sealing surface.
Case halves have been mated together, torqued and all new case bolts installed. Cam gear has been installed,
bolts torqued, then safety wired. Yes, that is a dressed out ding and some polishing on the cam gear. This engine
had apparently had a generator seize and drop the drive gear into the back of the accessory case. I've had that
happen on one of my engines with the same result. No real damage. These gear clusters were magnafluxed and
had no cracks.
Engine case through bolts torqued down with washers in place to protect the cylinder mating surfaces.
Bottom of case.
Plenty of lubriplate assembly lube in the oil pump. This will protect the pump and seal the pump so it will pick
up oil immediately on it's first start up.
Starter pinion gear support bearing was removed, so this engine will
require either the B&C or SkyTec light
weight starter. The Prestolite and Delco starters can not be used.
Accessory case gasket with thin coating of silicone ready for accessory case installation.
Oil suction tube installed and safety wired into place.
Oil sump installed. Oil screen installed. Oil pressure relief nut installed over new relief spring and safetied
New tach drive also installed. All new nuts and washers for accessories are in place on the accessory plate.
Push rod tube stubs are installed and ready for installation of cylinders.
This engine will get fresh paint and
balanced rods re-installed with new bearings. This engine meets all standards
for a 0 SMOH engine and is eligible for installation on a certificated aircraft. This engine is sold and is getting
Brand new Continental Cylinders installed.
Engine case has been painted Continental Gold.
Engine comes complete with new cylinder base nuts, valve covers, push rods, stainless steel intake tubes, intake
tube rubber bushings, intake spyder, wet vacuum pump if desired and all gaskets required for complete assembly.
I have one rebuildable set of cylinders available and a few accessories.
Engine was stored on the stand and covered to keep dust out. It was sprayed internally with preservative
oil and wrapped in plastic for storage. This is sitting in my hangar here in dry NM where corrosion is rarely
Engine was assembled in accordance with the Continental overhaul manual.
October 10, 2010 - Finally doing the final assembly installing the top end on this engine.
These are brand new Continental cylinder assemblies purchased through A.E.R.O., which was an adventure
in itself. A.E.R.O. first shipped the wrong cylinders, then UPS damaged one during the return trip. UPS says
they will pay for it, but I'm still waiting for the check. These "ready to bolt on and fly" cylinders weren't exactly
as advertised. They were ready to bolt on and fly as long as you don't mind flying without push rods, rocker
arms, or valve covers. We overhauled an old set of rocker arms and will use an old set of push rods and valve
Engine unwrapped and ready to continue assembly.
Note the oil port hole in the rocker arm on the right. It has an oil port pointing up while the other rocker arm
doesn't. That oil port sprays oil upward with the oil landing back on top of the exhaust valve to help cool it, but
also sprays enough to lubricate both valves. I often times find the rockers installed on the wrong valves when I tear
these engines down. They will still work OK, but the exhaust valve guides will wear out sooner.
Piston smeared with assembly lube. Note the top ring is chrome to go with the steel barrel.
#4 cylinder installed. Overhead has lots of assembly lube. Before I install the valve covers, I'll use a blow
gun to blow this lube all over the valve stems as this engine is likely to be stored for a year or two before use.
Inside of the barrel smeared with assembly lube prior to installation.
Ring compressor on piston. I'll slip the cylinder half way over the piston, then install the oil ring, compress it,
then slide the cylinder the rest of the way on.
Uh oh. This wasn't supposed to happen. As I was torquing down the last stud, it only went to 32 ft lb, then
loosened up (It's supposed to torque to 42 ft lb). Yes, the threads pulled out. And yes, this is a case stud
that pulled from the middle of the case. The good news is that this is easily repaired with a 7/16-14 Helicoil.
The bad news is that the Helicoil has to be installed 5 1/2 inches down this hole. The Helicoil is too big to fit
down the hole, so the whole thing has to be torn down again.
10/14/2010 - I pulled the cylinders and split the case. It's ready here to go back to my
machinist where he will use a level drilling jig to drill and tap this case for the Helicoil. We'll
Helicoil both of the 7/16" rear studs, which will make it stronger than original. I'm not a happy
camper about tearing this engine all the way back down, but that's the only way to do it right.
10/16/2010 - It's been a long day, but the engine is back together again.
10/20/2010 - The engine had assembly lube sprayed into the top of the valves.
The cylinders and case internals were fogged with preservative oil to pickle the
engine for storage. Valve covers and intake runners are installed.